Shimla was the summer capital of British India, which is why a Himalayan hill town has a mock-Tudor high street and a neo-Gothic church at the top of it. The whole government of India moved here every hot season, on the backs of porters, up a road that was not finished.
That history is still visible everywhere, and it makes Shimla the most peculiar and the most interesting of the Indian hill stations.
The Ridge is the open promenade along the top of the town, with Christ Church at one end. Built in 1857, it is the second-oldest church in northern India and its stained glass was designed by Rudyard Kipling father.
Mall Road runs below it. No vehicles, which makes it one of the few Indian high streets you can walk down without negotiating traffic. It is where the whole town comes in the evening.
The narrow-gauge railway from Kalka is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the best way to arrive. Ninety-six kilometres, 102 tunnels, over 800 bridges, and about five hours climbing from the plains into the hills.
Book ahead, particularly in season. The Shivalik Deluxe and the Himalayan Queen are the services most visitors take. It is slower than the road and it is entirely the point.
The highest point in Shimla, reached by a steep walk from the Ridge or a cable car. There is a 33-metre Hanuman statue at the top and a large population of monkeys who will take your glasses. This is not a joke and the temple sells sticks to discourage them.
The old British seat of power, now an academic institute. The building is Scottish baronial in the middle of the Himalaya, and the partition of India was partly negotiated in its rooms.
Short trips out. Chail has the highest cricket ground in the world at 2,444 metres, built by a maharaja who had been thrown out of Shimla and wanted to make a point.
Most people pair the two, and it is the right call. Shimla for the colonial history, Manali for the mountains, roughly eight hours apart by road. Both feature on our North India Himalayan Tour.
Your own vehicle and driver for the whole route, fuel, tolls and state taxes. Hotels, meals, train tickets, entrance fees and guides are not included. We can book the toy train and anything else you want at cost, and we would recommend booking that particular train early.
Two full days covers the Ridge, Jakhoo, the Viceregal Lodge and a trip to Kufri or Chail.
Yes. Five hours, 102 tunnels, and a UNESCO listing. Book well ahead in season.
September to November for clear weather and small crowds, or March to June if you want the full hill-station season.
About 350 kilometres, seven to nine hours by road, or the train from Kalka after a train or drive to Kalka.
Tell us your dates and we will work out whether the train or the road suits your schedule better.
