Jaisalmer

What there is to see

Jaisalmer Fort is one of the very few living forts left in the world. Around three thousand people still live inside the walls, in houses their families have held for generations. You do not tour it so much as walk through someone's neighbourhood.

Patwon ki Haveli and the other merchant houses carry some of the finest stone carving in India, cut in the days when this was a caravan stop on the route to Central Asia.

The Sam and Khuri dunes, an hour out, are where the camel rides and desert camps are. We will be honest: Sam is busy and commercial in season. Khuri is quieter. Tell us which you would prefer and we will drive you there.

Getting there and driving times

Five hours from Jodhpur across open desert, and the drive itself is part of the experience. From Bikaner it is around five and a half hours.

How long to stay

Two nights, with one of them out at a desert camp if you want the dunes at sunset and the sky afterwards.

When to come

November to February. Desert nights in December get genuinely cold, so bring a layer. April to June is punishing here, regularly over 45 degrees, and we would talk you out of it.

How we drive it

Jaisalmer adds two to three days to a Rajasthan route. It is a long way out and back, so it suits travellers with a fortnight rather than a week. Your driver waits while you are at the camp and takes you on in the morning.

A suggested two days

Day one: walk up into the fort in the morning, through the gates and the lanes where people still live. After lunch, Patwon ki Haveli and the carved merchant houses of the old town, then Gadisar Lake late in the afternoon.

Day two: Bada Bagh, the royal cenotaphs on a ridge outside town, and the abandoned village of Kuldhara. In the late afternoon, drive out to the dunes for sunset and stay the night at a desert camp.

Sam or Khuri: which dunes?

Sam, about 40 km west, has the biggest and most famous dunes, with camel rides, music and many camps. It is lively, sometimes crowded. Khuri, about 45 km south-west, is smaller and much quieter. If you want stars and silence, choose Khuri. We will book whichever suits you.

Where to stay

There are a few small hotels inside the fort itself, which is special but can be hard to reach with luggage. Most people stay just below the fort, with a rooftop view of the walls glowing at sunset. One night at a desert camp is worth adding.

Practical tips

• Desert nights are cold from December to February, often close to freezing. Bring a warm layer.
• The Desert Festival usually takes place in February, with camel races, music and turban-tying contests. Hotels fill early.
• Jaisalmer Fort is part of the Hill Forts of Rajasthan UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Questions people ask

Is Jaisalmer worth the long drive?

Yes, if you have ten days or more in Rajasthan. It is the most remote city on the circuit and feels very different from the rest.

Is a desert camp safe and comfortable?

Yes. The camps we use have proper beds, private bathrooms and dinner around a fire. They are more like a simple hotel in tents.

How do we get from Jaisalmer to the next city?

Most of our guests drive back east to Jodhpur, about five hours, or north to Bikaner, about five to six hours.

Ask us about Jaisalmer

Tell us when you want to travel and how long you have. We come back with a route, the vehicle it needs and one price, usually within 24 hours. Our day rates are published in full, and your hotels stay your own choice.

Get a price for your Jaisalmer trip   See our car and driver rates